As the crow flies, the distance between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia is not great, but the Strait of Magellan requires a ferry to cross, and the ferry and subsequent drive take most of the day. We first head north to the ferry crossing at Punta Delgada. This is one of the narrowest parts of the Strait of Magellan, only about two miles across, but the current here is very strong, and ten foot waves batter the ferry as we cross. Some passengers stand at the bow, and are drenched in the icy water. When we land we are on Tierra del Fuego, which is the largest island of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. The island is partly Chilean and partly Argentine.

Driving through the Chilean part of the Island we see numerous sheep herds, large numbers of Guanacos, and a landscape that gradually changes from hilly to flat and then coastal coniferous forests. The older trees are draped in moss, and many are dead. The younger trees appear healthy.

We pass a beaver dam and large pond at one point. The beaver is not indigenous and has caused quite a bit of damage to the area due to flooding. There have been efforts to eliminate the beaver which have so far been unsuccessful.

As we cross the border into Argentina the roads are worse, with large potholes and treacherous driving. The sheep and guanacos disappear and are replaced by large cattle herds. Scattered fields and patches of lupine appear.

At last we reach our destination for the night, the small town of Tolhuin, on the shore of Lago Fagnano- the largest freshwater lake in the southern hemisphere, almost 100 kilometers long and 1400 feet deep. Snow capped mountains can be seen at the distant western end.

Hosteria Kaiken, our lodging for the night is comfortable and has a nice bar and restaurant overlooking the lake. A young Patagonian fox visits us, curious and hopeful of handouts.

It’s still light at 10:45 PM, as we go to bed. Tomorrow we have a short drive to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world.