We woke our first morning in El Chalten to cloudy skies, drizzle and 50 MPH winds howling around us. The receptionist at the hotel told us she had to walk the five blocks from her house mostly backwards and bent over to avoid blowing sand and gravel and to make headway in the wind. She said this was fairly typical at this time of year .

After our hotel breakfast we decided on a short hike that began just across the Las Vueltas River from the hotel. The route was mostly protected from the wind and rain except for the start and the mid point of the out and back trail. As we crossed the river wind nearly blew us off the bridge, wailing down the valley at gale force. Melissa turned back.

Once we reached the trees the wind was more manageable, and with a light drizzle coming down we set off on the Canon Rio de Los Vueltas trail, which promised beautiful views of the town of El Chalten and the surrounding mountains. As we ascended the mountain the footing was treacherous, with fine gravel and dust that would not hold the trail. Hiking poles made the way easier. The hills are covered with low growing shrubs with yellow flowers and thorny leaves called Neneo bushes. In protected areas there are conifers with wind tortured trunks.

As we reached the peak of the trail we emerged from the sheltering trees and the wind blew us sideways. Other hikers had taken refuge behind a rock outcropping, but there was no room for us. A weather station with solar panels was the best option for us, and we huddled behind it. There were no views.

The nearby mountains were shrouded in clouds and mist. The higher, snow covered peaks were ghosts. We could just see the village below.

After a few minutes at the top, we turned and headed down the trail as the rain intensified. Footing remained treacherous and the steeper areas were difficult even with poles. One of our group fell, but without injury. We reached the river and crossed the bridge to our hotel. The wind had subsided, now maybe 30 MPH. The rain was still increasing.

We gratefully reached the hotel, wet muddy and cold. But we had done our first hike in Patagonia.